India 2008
NORTHERN INDIA : Nov 15th – Dec 9th 2008
Andy and Helen Pay
We arranged this trip through Asian Adventures (http://www.indianwildlife.com/), taking one of their standard itineraries and making a few minor changes. The main targets of the trip were tigers, lots of birds and some cultural experiences. Our itinerary was Delhi, Kanha National Park, Agra, Chambal, Bharatpur, Pangot and Sattal, Corbett National Park.
We flew from Heathrow to Delhi with Virgin Atlantic, arriving at midday on Nov 15th and were met by a representative of the company and transferred by taxi to our hotel in the city. After a meal in a local restaurant, we went to bed early and slept for about 12 hours.
Nov 16th (day 1)
Sitting on the hotel roof eating breakfast, it was becoming apparent that our decision to have an extra couple of days in Delhi was a mistake. The smog reduced visibility to a few hundred metres and our throats and lungs were already complaining about the poor air quality. Although it was good to see several Black Kites floating around, it was of course the filth and squalor which was attracting them. Rose-ringed Parakeets were screaming around and House Crows were hopping about on the tables.
Nov 17th (day 2)
This morning we were driven to the Okhla Bird Sanctuary, a strip of bushes and scrub alongside the Yamuna River on the outskirts of the city. Although there were clearly some new birds to be had, the murky conditions and the noise from adjoining construction work were not conducive to enjoyable birding. We spent the morning ambling from one end to the other in a kind of jet-lag and pollution-induced stupor. There were large numbers of wildfowl way out on the river but I had inexplicably left my ‘scope at the hotel. There were some Spot-billed Ducks within binocular range however and we also saw our first Brown-headed Gull. The marshy riverbank had Indian Pond Heron and Purple Swamphen and the first of what was to be many White-breasted Kingfishers. We found Ashy and Grey Prinias in the bushes, along with Long-tailed Shrike, Common Tailorbird, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Indian Silverbill and a female Purple Sunbird. A Rufous Treepie swooped from one tree to the next and Green Bee-eaters used the branches as look-out perches. Asian Pied Starling, Hoopoe and House Swift completed a modest but satisfactory first-day list, before the sight of a local chap squatting to do his business on the path ahead signalled that it was time to retrace our steps. With hindsight, we probably missed a few easy species today.
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Ashy Prinia
Rufous Treepie
Asian Pied Starling
In the afternoon we had a guided tour of some of Delhi’s landmarks. The Red Fort dates from the peak of Mughal power in northern India and was completed in 1648. Its walls extend for 2 km and are up to 33 metres high. Humayan’s Tomb, built in the mid 16th Century, is an example of early Mughal architecture. Elements in its design were to be refined over the years to eventually create the Taj Mahal. Nearby is the Isa Khan Tomb Enclosure, dating from 1547. Finally, we stopped for a look at the Rashtrapati Bhavan (Presidential Palace) before heading back to the hotel for an early night before our flight south the next day.
Nov 18th (day 3)
We had chosen Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh, 500 miles south-east of Delhi, for tigers, as sightings there are pretty well guaranteed. We went there first to see a tiger so that we could then relax! The Park stretches over an area of 940 km² with a surrounding buffer zone of 1009 km².
Any hopes of getting a refreshing night’s sleep ready for our early morning flight to Jabalpur were dashed by the builders on the site right next to the hotel working late into the night. We were up at 4.00am, which may have been just as well as we were nearly taken to the wrong airport, but as it happened the flight was delayed a couple of hours and we finally arrived at Jabalpur at 12.45pm. We were met by our driver and set off for the 100 mile drive to Krishna Jungle Resort, just outside Kanha. The flat and dusty plains gradually gave way to higher ground as we sped through the countryside and villages, horn blazing almost continuously.
We arrived at the small and very tasteful complex at 4.00pm and were shown to a first-floor apartment. It was a great relief to breathe clean air and, for the first time since arriving in India, we felt relaxed. The evening meal was held in front of a bonfire where, along with some British visitors on a Saga holiday (!), we were entertained by some terrific local musicians and dancers.
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Nov 19th (day 4)
We had pre-booked a number of safaris into the park and we were out before dawn at 5.30am. We climbed into our Gypsy (small safari jeep manufactured by Maruti Suzuki) with our driver and young guide Sudhir Singh and drove the few miles to the park entrance. Here we joined a short queue of other Gypsies waiting for the gates to open at 6.00am. Everything is geared up to finding tigers. The Gypsies charge around hoping to find one on the dirt roads and occasionally stop to listen out for alarm calls, especially of monkeys and Spotted Deer. Meanwhile, the mahouts head off into the forest on their elephants ready to report any tigers they find.
We were asked if we wanted to drive hard through the park to perhaps find our own tiger but we opted for a more leisurely approach to look at birds and other wildlife. Amongst the commoner birds were Black and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Indian Peafowl, Alexandrine Parakeet, Greater Coucal and frequent flocks of noisy Jungle Babblers. We also saw Black-shouldered Kite, Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Shikra, Jungle Owlet, Grey Bushchat and Black-rumped Flameback (a woodpecker). A marshy area held a group of Lesser Whistling-ducks. As for mammals, Spotted Deer were numerous, with a few Sambar deer, Gaur (Indian Bison, the largest species of cattle in the world), Wild Boar and four Golden Jackals.
Crested Serpent Eagle
Mid-morning a message came through that a feeding tiger had been located and we drove over to be number three in the queue to take an elephant ride to see it. Our turn soon came around and within a few minutes we were looking down at a huge male Tiger tucking into the stinking carcass of a male Gaur. It didn’t seem too worried by our presence but it did start to drag the dead animal further into cover, demonstrating its immense strength. After a few photos it was back out to allow the next punters to take their turn. It was a fantastic experience, in spite of the fact that it felt like being on a twitch!
After lunch we returned to the park for another cruise round. Unfortunately the guides weren’t very interested in the small, less spectacular birds and their i.d. skills were very limited. For example, a distant flock of “Scarlet Minivets” were on closer inspection clearly Long-tailed Minivets. On the drive back to Krishna and later that night, we had the only rain of the entire trip.
Nov 20th (day 5)
Helen was down with a cold today (probably exacerbated by the after-effects of Delhi smog), so I did the morning safari without her. There were no tiger sightings so she wasn’t too miffed, but I did get a few new birds. We spent a long time manoeuvring the vehicle (getting out is forbidden) to get good views of a White-rumped Shama skulking around under the bushes and I established that a couple of the calls I was hearing frequently were Greenish and Hume’s Warblers. Also amongst the new species were the bizarre Crested Tree-swift, White-rumped Vulture, the first Indian Roller of the trip and a water snake swimming across a pond.
Indian Roller
Nov 21st (day 6)
Helen decided to give the morning a miss, wisely as the early ride on the back of the Gypsy is very bracing. Our driver was in a competitive mood today. He gained fifth place in the queue, from eighth, by some nifty overtaking whilst other drivers were half asleep, then swept into second place whilst the three in front paused to photograph a Gaur. By taking the first turn to the left we had an open road ahead of us and we spent the next hour bouncing around on the bumpy tracks as he drove hard into the heart of the forest. Although it was quite exhilarating, I was beginning to wonder just what it was all about, especially as I was hearing some amazing bird calls and getting fleeting glimpses of new species as we whizzed by. These tactics, aimed at finding a tiger before anyone else, failed to pay off as we actually saw very little.
Gaur
Some super new birds today – including Bay-backed and Rufous-tailed Shrikes, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Blue-throated Flycather, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher and an Olive-backed Pipit - took the total to a modest 80 so far.
Nov 22nd (day 7)
Our last morning safari produced two female tigers and a rare Swamp Deer or Barasingha. The first tiger was at close range from elephant-back, a dozing individual semi-hidden in vegetation, but the second was more exciting. Given a tip-off by a Gypsy-driver coming in the opposite direction, our man did a quick U-turn and sped off in pursuit. Walking sedately along the road ahead was a rather skinny-looking tigress. Ahead of her were several more Gypsies reversing steadily to maintain a suitable distance. After a couple of minutes she turned on to a track on the left which was marked out of bounds by a small log placed across it and we watched her disappear around the corner.
The other vehicles pulled away but we noticed that our driver and guides were having an earnest discussion (in Hindi of course). Then, glancing up and down the road to make sure the coast was clear, our man swung our vehicle around, bounced over the log and set off after the tiger. We soon caught her up and had a few minutes following at a respectful range, allowing me to take some more photos as she crossed a stream (though she hardly turned round). Then we went back up to the main track, our companions giggling away, at which point Sudhir kindly informed us that this was the tigress which had killed an elephant-keeper two months back and had also leapt on to the bonnet of a ranger’s land-rover!
The afternoon drive was quiet by comparison, apart from a snake alongside the access road.
Nov 23rd (day 8)
I spent the last couple of hours at Krishna birding along the lane with Sudhir. We made our way down to the river and saw Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher and Golden-fronted Leafbird. Before Helen and I left the camp, we experienced joy and disappointment in quick succession. Presented with our bill, we were thrilled to find that the sum we were expecting to pay for the safaris and guide fees had apparently been included in the figure we had paid to the agents on arrival in Delhi. We were on the point of departure when a breathless employee caught us up and gave us the bad news.
23,000 rupees poorer we set off for Jabalpur at 10.30am. On arrival our driver dropped us at the Hotel Krishna for lunch and we also picked up a huge take-away for our evening meal. Then we were driven to the railway station for our overnight sleeper to Agra. An aging porter engaged by the driver insisted on carrying both of our large, heavy bags one on top of the other on his head! As he creaked up the steps and over the bridge, we fully expected his knees to buckle and our luggage to go crashing to the ground, but he just about managed the task and deserved the good tip we gave him.
Golden-fronted Leafbird
The train left at 3.55pm and within a couple of hours it was dark outside. Just as we opened our boxes of food a mouse suddenly shot behind our luggage. He didn’t reappear and we had the meal to ourselves. We then settled down – or rather I did on the top bunk. Helen didn’t get much sleep below....
Nov 24th (day 9)
The train pulled into Agra station at 4.15am and a familiar face was there to greet us – Prem, one of the chaps from the agents we saw in Delhi. We were whisked into a car and taken to a cheap hotel where we could spend a couple of hours getting cleaned up and having a nap. It was surprising to see all the market stalls open and people milling about the shadowy streets a couple of hours before dawn.
At 8.00 a guide arrived and took us to the Taj Mahal. We were given lots of information and had plenty of time to go inside and see it in all its glory. It was well worth the visit. We were then taken to a small factory to watch craftsmen demonstrating the marble inlay work for which the Taj is famous. It was of course a thinly disguised opportunity to sell us some of their wares!
We left for the Chambal Safari Lodge, 16 kms from the National Chambal Sanctuary, at 11.30, arriving in time for some lunch in the gardens. The Chambal River, known for its pristine waters and as a home to a rich diversity of flora and fauna, is a perennial river bordered by steep ravines. Part of the sanctuary is under heavy illegal sand mining, which is endangering its fragile ecosystem. The Lodge is located in a 35 acre plantation of large trees. Several indigenous varieties of trees and shrubs have been planted to supplement the existing plantation, creating a veritable ‘jungle’.
Our cabin was really comfortable and was right next to a large tree which had a number of Indian Flying Foxes roosting in the top branches. Also known as the Greater Indian Fruit Bat, this is one of the largest bats in the world with a wingspan up to 1.5 metres. I spent a little time wandering around and then Sunil, the in-house bird-guide, took us for a two hour walk around the grounds and the nearby arable fields. This was the best birding of the trip so far and brought a number of new species, including a pair of Spotted Owlets, Brown Hawk-owl, Collared Scops Owl, Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets, Brahminy and Rosy Starlings, Large Grey Babblers and Pied Bushchat. There were a number of Indian Flying Foxes hanging from the higher branches. Finally, as darkness fell, we had great views of a Palm Civet sitting in a tree. Ecologically, Palm Civets can be described as filling a similar niche in Asia that the Common Raccoon fills in North America.
Female Pied Bushchat
Nov 25th (day 10)
We were out walking again with Sunil at 06.45am, adding half a dozen new species, including Plum-headed Parakeet, Red-headed Bunting, Baya Weaver and Black-breasted Weavers.
After breakfast we set off in the car for the Chambal River, arriving in under an hour. We drove on to the wide, shingly/sandy river-bank and very quickly saw a very close Long-legged Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture, Sand Lark, male Desert Wheatear and Paddyfield Pipit. Before setting off in the small open boat, I had the chance to photograph a group of six Indian Skimmers standing on a nearby sand-bar. Apparently they had only arrived on the river the previous day. This is listed as a vulnerable species, with a total population of under 10,000 individuals. Maybe that’s why they nervously flew away across the river before I got close enough for a picture.
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Long-legged Buzzard  Egyptian Vulture |
River Tern
Bonelli's Eagles
As we approached the launch-site on our return we saw that the skimmers had returned and I was able to get some shots of them and also River Tern and Black-bellied Terns. We saw 81 bird species today, and the list had grown to 145.
After lunch we were driven to Bharatpur, arriving at the Hotel Sunbird at 4.30pm. Our new guide, Ratan Singh, is quite a celebrity in Indian birding circles and he gave us a warm welcome.
Nov 26th (day 11)
The marshes of Keoladeo National Park, more popularly known as Bharatpur, were the private hunting reserve of the Maharajas of Bharatpur. They was developed in the late 19th century by creating small dams and bunds in an area of natural depression to collect rainwater and by feeding it with an irrigation canal. Over the years, the lakes developed into one of the major wintering areas for large numbers of aquatic birds from Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, China and Siberia. Some 364 species of birds have been recorded in the park.
Two-thirds of the park can lie under water, the extent and volume depending on the intensity of the monsoon. We were lucky as, after several years of low rainfall and dry conditions, the rains had returned in abundance. The remaining one-third of the park is covered in dry deciduous forests (with Acacia, Ber, Kadam and Khajur trees) and extensive grasslands. On the raised ground outlining the wetlands grow a profusion of Acacia trees, where the resident water birds nest, often in large mixed colonies.
Ratan called for us at 7.30 and after picking up our packed lunches, we took the short walk to the Park entrance. We took cycle rickshaws through the first section of dry grassland with scattered acacias, stopping for Spotted Owlet and White-eared Bulbuls, before exploring the damp, wooded area known as the Nursery. Here we saw our first Bluethroat, Orange-headed Thrush, Oriental White-eye, Ashy Drongo, Indian Cormorant, two perched Oriental Honey Buzzards and a roosting Indian Jungle Nightjar.
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White-eared Bulbul |
We then slowly proceeded on foot along the main track. The bushes were full of birds, including Common Woodshrike, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher and Brook’s Leaf-warbler. We took a look at what must be the most-observed Dusky Eagle-owl in the world, sitting on its nest. When we stopped for a drink, we found ourselves accompanied by a rather tame Nilgai, the largest antelope in Asia.
Common Woodshrike
After several hours of great birding in a very relaxing environment, we headed back mid afternoon.
Nov 27th (day 12)
Out at 7.30 again this morning and straight back into the park. This time we took cycle rickshaws all the way down to the centre, so we could cover areas we didn’t reach the day before. Ratan got very excited about a Sirkeer Malkoha perched quietly in a nearby bush – quite a tricky bird to find by all accounts – and that was followed soon after by a Pied Cuckoo.
The wonderfully named Sirkeer Malkoha
We found some Asian Openbills in the stork colony but we could only find a single crane – a distant Sarus. On the marshes, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, White-breasted Waterhen and Cotton Pygmy-goose were new and so was a juvenile Spotted Eagle which landed nearby but then remained out of sight.
Along the trail Ratan said he would find us a Long-tailed Nightjar. It was only a few minutes before he quietly called us over and there it was, resting perfectly still under a bush. We added Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Jungle Prinia, Clamorous Reed Warbler and Black-headed Munia to the list. We also saw a six foot Cobra on the path and coming in our direction before it thankfully disappeared down a hole and a young Rock Python trying to remain inconspicuous amongst dead leaves.
We went back to the hotel at 4.00 after another superb day. Every channel on the TV had non-stop live coverage of the terrorist attacks in Mumbai. The banner “Warzone Mumbai” was permanently emblazoned across the screen.
Nov 22nd (day 13)
Off to the Bund Baretha this morning with Ratan and our new driver Bablu. This is a wildlife reserve comprising marshes and hilly ground around a man-made reservoir. We made several stops on the way to look for birds in the fields and roadside marshes, picking up Eurasian Thick-knee (otherwise known of course as Stone-curlew), the rather scarce Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Rufous-tailed Lark and Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark. In roadside patches of pampas-grass we had great views of Yellow-eyed Babbler, Red-headed Buntings and male Avadavats collecting nesting material. The marshy ponds were less rewarding and we failed to find hoped-for Greater Painted-snipe, Paddyfield Warbler or Brown Crake.
Today was the hottest day of the entire trip and we ate our lunch in a rock shelter for sheep to get some shade! The water in the lake was lapping right up to the edge, which Ratan said was unfortunate as it reduced our chances of a few more species. We had a look for Painted Sandgrouse but again, they failed to show. We did see a couple of Citrine Wagtails, Common Rosefinch and lots of birds we had seen already, such as Woolly-necked Stork, Black-headed Ibis, Crested serpent-eagle, Wire-tailed Swallow and Bay-backed Shrike.
By the time we arrived back at the hotel at 4.00, the trip-list stood on 193 species.
Nov 29th (day 14)
Now it was time for our two-leg road journey north. Leaving Bharatpur at 9.00 we dropped one of the team off in Delhi, then carried on to the east. We were by now pretty relaxed about being passengers on the crazy Indian roads, but thick fog for several miles either side of crossing the Ganges had our hearts in our mouths. Within a very short space of time we saw the aftermath of five recent accidents.
Thankfully it soon cleared and, some 60 kms east of Delhi, we turned on to a dirt road in a small town. Driving past fields of sugar-cane and mango orchards, we arrived just after 3.00 at our accommodation for the night, the Mud Fort at Kuchesar. This spectacular building dates from the early 18th Century and was constructed to give protection from British imperialists. The mud walls swallowed up the cannonballs fired at them, which were extracted and then fired back! The fort was of course later occupied by the British themselves. Today it serves as a rather splendid hotel for tourists and a get-away bolt-hole for the well-heeled of Delhi. There weren’t many guests staying at the time and later that evening we were exclusively treated to an fantastic display of music and dancing by a local family.
Not many birds in the notebook today, but lots of the usual Cattle Egrets, Common Mynas and Black Kites en route, a Long-legged Buzzard over the courtyard and a Black-shouldered Kite hunting over the fields below the fort.
Nov 30th (day 15)
We resumed our journey at 8.00am. Late morning, the road quite suddenly started climbing up from the dusty plains and the open fields gave way to thick forest. Bablu stopped so we could have a short walk and sraightaway we found a pair of Scarlet Minivets in the trees. The road became increasingly twisty as we climbed higher into the Himalayan foothills and we left the tarmac on to a rougher track. We saw our first Blue Whistling Thrush and we stopped to admire a breathtaking view of the Himalayas 70 miles away: the highest point was Nanda Devi, which at 25,643 feet is the second-highest mountain in India.
Situated about 200 miles north-east of Delhi, Pangot is 15 kms from the old hill-station and now tourist town of Nainital and is a typical Kumaun hill settlement with about 15 families. At an altitude of 6000 feet , many birds of the higher parts of the Himalayas, Tibet and northern Asia come down here for the winter to join the many resident birds in the foothills.
We were shown down to our cabin and after unpacking our gear, we spent a little time in the lodge garden, seeing the resident flock of 50+ White-throated Laughing-thrushes, Black-headed Jay, Buff-barred and Grey-hooded Warblers, Rufous Sibia and Green-backed Tit. Hari then took us for a walk around the village and its fields. We added Striated Prinia, Himalayan Bulbul, Mountain Chiffchaff, Striated Laughing-thrush, Blue-fronted Redstart, Russet Sparrow, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, Pink-browed Rosefinch and Rock Bunting. With all but three of the species we saw since arriving being new for the trip, the list had leapt to 210.
Dec 1st (day 16)
I had a bad cough today, exacerbated by the much lower temperatures in the hills, but the birding prospects were just too good to take time out. We set off for higher ground at 7.15, en route to the best spot for the elusive Cheer Pheasant. The scenery up here was fantastic. Gazing out across the hills below us, we realised that the voices we could hear were people in the villages way below us. We could also hear women gathering grass on the hill-side who were almost far too away to see with the naked eye. We spent some time scanning the hillsides but the pheasants remained unseen. We did however see several small flocks of Altai Accentors swirling around.
We made many stops and took short walks on the way back down, picking up lots of birds in the roadside trees and bushes: Asian Barred Owlet, a party of Great Barbets, Black-throated Thrushes, Lemon-rumped Warbler, several species of tit and no less than five woodpeckers, all of them new species. Bablu demonstrated that he has eyes in the side of his head by somehow combining manoeuvring the car around the tight bends with spotting a male Koklass Pheasant skulking amongst the undergrowth beneath some trees.
Asian Barred Owlet
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Lemon-rumped Warbler |
After lunch we headed downhill this time, making our way to a river where we saw our first Plumbeous and White-capped Water-redstarts. Red-billed Blue Magpie, White-throated Fantail and other birds gave us a great total of 28 new birds today.
Dec 2nd (day 17)
We started the day with another attempt for the Cheer Pheasants, seeing Muntjac and a party of 15 Wild Boar in the woods on the way up. A Himalayan Griffon passed extremely low overhead as it glided along the side of the hill and we caught sight of a Goran (mountain goat) on the rocks. Again we had no luck with the pheasants, although we found the Koklass in exactly the same place and got better views this time. We went for a decent walk (bearing in mind the lower oxygen up here!) around a hillside village and its small fields. Bird of the day was a stunning male Red-flanked Bluetail, with a pair of Bonelli’s Eagles, Blue-capped Redstart and Rufous-breasted Accentor worthy runners-up. We also had our first Black Bulbuls, Whiskered Yuhina, Slaty-headed Parakeet and Yellow-browed Tit.
Sitting on the verandah at the lodge after lunch one of the other guides spotted a Mountain Hawk-eagle, which we got good views of. Later in the afternoon we went for another walk around Pangot. We smiled a lot with some of the villagers and looked at the tiny school, whose walls bore paintings and messages from some English school-children who had been on a very recent trip.
Helen, Bablu and Hari discussing where we would end up were the car to go off the road
Dec 3rd (day 18)
We then drove further then set off on foot along a wider, tree-lined valley below a large dam. This was far more productive, starting with a cracking male Rufous-bellied Niltava before coming across a mixed flock of small birds coming down to drink. They included numbers of Red-billed Leiothrix and Blue-winged Minla. Hari found us an incredibly skulking Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler, which eventually gave a quick flight-view and he repeated the act a little later with Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler.
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We then came across a small and disparate group of birders whom we had seen earlier in the day. They appeared to be led by an Australian who insisted on trying to coax out Ashy-throated Warbler and other species by playing at very high volume a series of recordings which sounded like they’d been made at a rave, or possibly on a battle-field. It was hilarious.
We managed very well without such aids, racking up two new and large woodpeckers – Greater Yellownape and Greater Flameback – as well as Golden Bush-robin and Yellow-bellied Fantail.
After lunch we stopped by the side of a small river and very quickly got one of the most eagerly-awaited birds of the trip – a Spotted Forktail. We walked up the almost dry river-bed, surrounded by thick woodland. It occurred to us that this was a very risky thing to do. Tigers are not uncommon hereabouts and we were aware that a local woman had been killed nearby only days earlier. We still went though!
Having survived, we drove to Kumeria, where the river was again most productive, giving us two more species of forktail and a Brown Dipper. With tiredness setting in, along with considerable pain from the rapidly blackening thumb-nail which I had trapped in the car-door that morning, we headed back. En route we stopped at a most foul-smelling tip in a huge crater below the road. An Upland Pipit was perched on the edge, a species we had heard but not seen at Pangot. As Hari clapped his hands a great flock of Steppe Eagles emerged, flying into the trees. He said there are often 100+ of them feeding here! At the end of an amazing day we had added 27 new birds.
Dec 4th (day 19)
We decamped from Pangot at 7.30am, driving back down towards Corbett National Park. A stop along the way to look at a group of hirundines produced Dusky Crag Martin and Nepal House Martin amongst the Red-rumped Swallows. We found Green-throated and Crimson Sunbirds further on, plus Grey-capped Pygmy-woodpecker, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo and Pale-billed Flowerpecker.
Jim Corbett National Park was chosen as the venue for the inauguration of Project Tiger in India. It is famous for its wild populations of tigers, leopards and elephants and has a great variety of fauna on account of its habitat diversity. Its species lists run to 110 trees, 50 mammals, 580 birds and 25 reptiles. It is part of the terai (which translates as moist land), a belt of marshy jungle and grassland stretching between the foothills of the Himalayas and the Indian plains. Corbett's avifauna is particularly interesting because of the overlap between the plains and high altitudes. A number of high altitude birds visit the national park during winter. The Ramganga river runs through the park and is another source of attraction to many winter migrants.
Arriving at lunchtime near the entrance to Jim Corbett National Park at Dhangari, we transferred to one of their jeeps for a slow drive through the park to the camp at Dhikala. We had to be accompanied by one of the park’s own guides, who in our case was a very annoying man with a loud, harsh voice and a habit of tugging your arm to draw your attention to some common bird whilst you were already watching a much rarer one. Hari was greatly amused by our irritation, but understanding of it, telling us that the man had been told before about his behaviour but refused to take advice!
We meandered along the trail in our jeep, seeing many good birds such as a flock of noisy White-crested Laughing-thrushes, Tawny Fish-owl, White-rumped Needletail and Lineated Barbet. On stops to look at the river we saw a Pallas’s Fish-eagle perched in a dead tree and a Crested Kingfisher. The rarest species came at the end of the afternoon. Announcing themselves with loud calls, we picked up in the distance some huge woodpeckers flying into a tree. A group of four of them – Great Slaty Woodpeckers - then came flying over the trees and across the road in front of us.
We reached the camp at 5.00, booked into our cabin, unpacked and had dinner.
Dec 5th (day 20)
We left the camp compound soon after first light for a morning’s drive on the back of the jeep. Making our way towards some tall grassland, we had one of the most memorable moments of the trip. On the sandy track right in front of the vehicle was a stunning male White-tailed Rubythroat hopping about with a male Bluethroat, with a Singing Bushlark thrown in for good measure. Lesser Coucals were quite prominent here and we also recorded our first Jungle Mynas and Black Francolin, which went scurrying ahead of us.
Heading back into the forest we came across a large group of Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrikes. We had yet two more new woodpeckers - Lesser Yellownape and Himalayan Flameback - and a Cinerous Vulture (which we know as Black Vulture). Stopping at a small compound for a toilet-break, a small accipiter came over - our one and only Besra.
Cinereous Vulture
We then made our way to a tall watch-tower overlooking the Kosi River and its extensive grassy flood-plain. It was a good place for raptors, bringing us three more vulture species. Suddenly we heard the alarm calls of Spotted Deer. There were a dozen or so people on the tower, all searching for a tiger. It then went quiet again and the deer we could see resumed grazing. Scanning through the tall grass on the far side of the river, I saw a movement and thought I caught a glimpse of the back of a tiger’s ears. I alerted everyone to it, but no-one could make anything out. A few minutes later Hari called out that I was right – there was indeed a tiger slowly making its way through the grass. And then it emerged on the river-bank. As it did so it saw a deer which was swimming across the river. It went into a crouch and ran towards it. The deer emerged and stood still, sensing danger. The tiger then clearly decided it couldn’t be bothered and straightened up. It ambled down to the river and slowly swam across to the other side, walked a little way along the bank, then vanished into the forest. Although the most distant of our tiger sightings, this was the most rewarding, being self-found.
Dec 6th (day 21)
We were out again early this morning, making our way slowly in the jeep to the grassy marshes bordering the lake. We were now in prime habitat for Hodgson’s Bushchat, a vulnerable species with a very small world-wide population. Sure enough we found several of them amongst the much more common Siberian Stonechats. We also had great views of both Zitting and Bright-headed Cisticolas, Long-billed Pipit and a Crested Bunting.
We stopped the jeep to scan the marshes and were watching a hunting ringtail Hen Harrier when a fantastic male Pied Harrier suddenly appeared on the scene and started mobbing it. We watched both birds for some time. The Pied continually flew along behind and a little higher than the Hen, obviously hoping to be the first to pounce on anything flushed by the leading bird. The Hen Harrier moved away but the Pied continued to hunt up and down for some time.
Moving back into the forest we stopped for a party of Large Woodshrikes and Helen spotted a Maroon Oriole in the branches overhead. Then it was back to the watchtower for a couple of hours. No tigers today but a Blue-throated Barbet in the nearby tree at eye-level, and two Collared Falconets which perched in the open at very close range for a long time, quite oblivious to our presence. Turning around, we saw another group of five of them in another tree.
Dec 7th (day 22)
We went to the banks of the Kosi River this morning to look for some specialities. The river-bed is wide with large, exposed shingle-flats during the dry season. As I was casually mooching about, a small broad-winged bird flew quite low right over my head. It took a moment to register: Wallcreeper! It flew along the river and out of sight. I started to walk back and immediately flushed another, which must have been on the steep bank right below me. This one flew across on to the shingle halfway across the river, but soon returned and gave us very close views. Frustratingly I was a little too slow with the camera and a decent photo eluded me.
The next target was the legendary Ibisbill, two or three of which spend each winter on this stretch of the river. They are very difficult to find anywhere else and are thus a much sought-after species. We spent some time making our way along the river, scanning the shingle. A couple of Rosy Pipits were new for us, before we finally found two Ibisbills, exceptionally well-camouflaged amongst the boulders.
Much sought-after Ibisbill
Crested Kingfishers not speaking to each other
Back near the road we added Common Iora and in a dense thicket, Tawny-bellied Babbler and great views of a very skulking Chestnut-headed Tesia. Back in the car and in a couple of well-timed stops we added Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker and a Blue-bearded Bee-eater.
In the afternoon, we drove through Ramnagar to explore some forest and agricultural land. The roadside trees were very productive and a couple of stops brought Little Pied Flycatcher, not an easy bird to find, along with Spangled Drongo (our 7th drongo species) and Streak-throated Woodpecker (bringing our woodpecker tally to an amazing 16 species!) We also saw a wild elephant, quite scarce outside the national park. We parked up just outside a small village, finding Spanish Sparrows in the large sparrow flock and an Emerald Dove shot past. By the end of the day we were on 342 species for the trip.
Dec 8th (day 23)
Our last full day’s birding saw us out again soon after dawn. I had now set a target of 350 species. We drove through Ramnagar again, stopping to look at the river, where we could see four species of kingfisher with one sweep of the binoculars. A little further down the road, a fifth species, Stork-billed, was perched low in a tree just a few yards from the car, then we found a very photogenic Brown Fish-owl and Jungle Owlet.
Jungle Owlet
We stopped again to look for new birds and, frustratingly, heard Great Hornbill, Black-crested Bulbul and Grey-bellied Tesia, all new for us, but all failed to show themselves. Walking through some waist high elephant-grass again brought home the unlikely but nonetheless quite real possibility of being attacked by a lurking tiger! Back to the lodge for lunch and no new birds added.
After a break it was back to the agricultural landscape we had visited the previous afternoon. Hari seemed determined to get us to our objective. Passing through a small village we spotted a Brown Rockchat flycatching from a low roof. The next stop brought us one of the most spectacular birds of the whole trip. We could hear Great Hornbill calls coming from some trees, then they took off – the sound of their wingbeats was quite astonishing. Very luckily, the two huge birds flew across the road and landed in nearby tree-tops, giving terrific views.
Some small scrubby fields in a village held a Bengal Bushlark, then Hari set off purposefully across the open landscape, with us in tow. We proceeded to rack up several new birds: female Variable Wheatear, Oriental Skylark, two Blyth’s Pipits which gave good views before calling as they flew over our heads, and amongst a mixed starling flock...a European Starling! By now dusk was approaching. We tried an open sandy area for Isabelline Wheatear, but no luck, but then, walking back to the car, I noticed a medium-sized raptor on top of a small tree. It was our 350th species – a Common Buzzard!
Dec 9th (day 24)
The long drive back to Delhi today, but first things first – an early visit back to the river to try and photograph a Wallcreeper. I succeeded and, although the light was poor, I got some reasonable shots. Whilst there we witnessed an extraordinary event – a Cormorant was fishing in the shallows when it was dropped upon by a Mountain Hawk-eagle, which proceeded to hold its head underwater for several minutes. But then, somehow, the Cormorant got away, and came bobbing down the rushing river, blood running from a head-wound. It hauled itself out on the bank and stood there trembling. We left it to recover, hopefully, as we had to be on the road at 10.00am.
We dropped Hari off in Ramnagar to get his bus up to Sattal, giving him a very decent tip for all his hard work. It was sad that the Mumbai bombings had caused some birding tours to be cancelled (quite unnecessarily!) and he didn’t have much work on the horizon.
The journey back was mainly uneventful, apart from some skulduggery by Bablu to get through a town where a large Muslim festival was going on, and a stop on the bridge over the Ganges for one last bit of birding. It paid off in the form of a few Black-headed Gulls (!) but, of far more significance of course, a huge gull swimming around with a flock of Ruddy Shelducks further down the river was, on closer inspection, an adult Pallas’s, just as we had hoped.
We arrived back at the Hotel Sunstar Residency in Delhi at 4.15 and said goodbye to Bablu, another great guy who had been so kind to us. We went up to our room with some trepidation but were really pleased to find ourselves in a far superior room to that before (although the linen was still grimy – but that’s a product of the pollution). We made a phone call to the “shopping emporium” who promptly delivered the goods we had paid for three weeks earlier, and we settled down for the night, ready for our flight home the following afternoon.
This was our first visit to India. It was a trip in which we witnessed many contrasts, from the natural beauty of Corbett and Kanha National Parks to the dusty plains with their villages full of smiling children, from the magnificent forts, palaces and temples to the squalor and destitution so evident in Delhi and other towns and cities we passed through. It’s a magical country but there’s no escaping the reality. I would recommend anyone to go, but don’t get too carried away with the tourist propaganda – experience it all, for better and for worse.
BIRDS (figures represent the day(s) each species was seen) Phasianidae
Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus 20 21
Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus 10hd 11 12 22
Koklass Pheasant Pucrasia macrolopha 16 17
Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus 4 5 6 22 23
Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos 19 21 22
Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus 4 5 6 7 9 10 11 13 14 21 22 23
Anatidae
Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica 4 10 12
Greylag Goose Anser anser 12
Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus 10 11
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 11 12
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea 10 19 23 24
Cotton Pygmy Goose Nettapus coromandelianus 12
Gadwall Anas strepera 2 12 13
Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha 2 11 12 13
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 2
Northern Pintail Anas acuta 11
Garganey Anas querquedula 12
Common Teal Anas crecca 10 11 12
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina 12
Common Pochard Aythya farina 2
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 2
Podicipedidae
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 2 5 6 7 12 13
Ciconiidae
Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala 11 12 13
Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans 12
Black Stork Ciconia nigra 20
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 7 10 13 21
Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus 20
Threskiornithidae
Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus 11 12 13
Black Ibis Pseudibis papillosa 4 6 8 9 10
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 10 11 12
Ardeidae
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 11 12
Striated Heron Butorides striata 11
Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii 2 5 6 7 8 9 11 12 13 19 23
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 3 8 10 13 14 15 23 24
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 10 11 12 20 21
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 2 11 12 13 14
Great Egret Ardea modesta 11 12 13 20 21
Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 13 19 21
Little Egret Egretta garzetta 8 11 13 19
Pelecanidae
Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 11
Phalacrocoracidae
Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger 6 7 10 11 12 19 20
Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis 11 12
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 2 10 11 12 19 20 21 24
Anhingidae
Darter Anhinga melanogaster 11 12 13 20
Falconidae
Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens 19 20 21
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 7 8 10 17
Accipitridae
Osprey Pandion haliaetus 20 21
Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus 11
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus 4 7 9 10 12 14 21 23
Black Kite Milvus migrans 1 2 9 10 14 15 18 19 22 23 24
Pallas's Fish Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus 19
Lesser Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis 20 21
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 10 11 22
White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis 5 6 19
Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis 16 17 18 19
Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus 20
Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus 20 21 22
Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus 20 21
Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela 4 5 7 13
Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 12
Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus 20 21
Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos 21
Shikra Accipiter badius 4 9 10 12 13 21 22
Besra Accipiter virgatus 20
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 10 16
White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa 7 12
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 23
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 10 11 14
Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga 12
Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis 18 19 23
Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus 10 17
Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus 4 5 7 20 21 23
Mountain Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis 17 19 24
Rallidae
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus 12 13 22 23
Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 2 12 13
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 2 4 11 12 13
Common Coot Fulica atra 10 12 13
Gruidae
Sarus Crane Grus antigone 12
Burhinidae
Eurasian Thick-knee Burhinus indicus 13
Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris 10
Ibidorhynchidae
Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii 22
Recurvirostridae
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 10 13 19 23
Charadriidae
River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii 10 22 23
Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus 13 23
Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus 2 4 5 6 7 9 10 13 14 22 23
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 10 22
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrines 10
Jacanidae
Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus 12
Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus 11 12 13
Scolopacidae
Common Redshank Tringa totanus 10 13
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 10 11 13 19 20
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 6 8 10 13 22
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 10
Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii 10
Laridae
Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus 2
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus 24
Pallas’s Gull Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus 24
River Tern Sterna aurantia 10
Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda 10
Indian Skimmer Rynchops albicollis 10
Columbidae
Rock Pigeon Columba livia all except BP
Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis 16
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 1 9 10 12 13 20
Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica 10 13
Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis 4 5 6 7 8 20
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 2 5 11 12 13 14 23
Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica 22
Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus 9 10 12
Pin-tailed Green Pigeon Treron apicauda 19
Psittacidae
Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria 4 5 6 7 8
Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri 1 2 4 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 23
Slaty-headed Parakeet Psittacula himalayana 17 19
Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala 10 20 22
Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri 18
Cuculidae
Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis 4 5 6 8 9 10 12 13 23
Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis 20 21
Sirkeer Malkoha Taccocua leschenaultia 12
Pied Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus 12
Strigidae
Collared Scops Owl Otus lettia 9 10 11 12
Dusky Eagle-Owl Bubo coromandus 11 12
Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis 20 23
Tawny Fish Owl Ketupa flavipes 19
Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides 16 19 21
Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum 4 5 6 7 20 23
Spotted Owlet Athene brama 9 10 11 12 13
Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata 9 10
Caprimulgidae
Indian Jungle Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus 11
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus 12
Hemiprocnidae
Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronate 5 19
Apodidae
White-rumped Needletail Zoonavena sylvatica 19
Little Swift Apus affinis 2 18
Coraciidae
Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis 5 6 7 8 9 10 13 23 24
Alcedinidae
Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis 20 23
White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis all
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 11 12 18 22 23
Crested Kingfisher Megaceryle lugubris 19 21 22 23 24
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 10 11 13 19 22 23 24
Meropidae
Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni 22
Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis 2 4 6 9 11 13
Upupidae
Common Hoopoe Upupa epops 2 4 9 10 11 12 13
Bucerotidae
Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris 4 6 7 9 11 14 22
Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus 6
Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris 22 23
Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis 23
Ramphastidae
Great Barbet Megalaima virens 16
Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica 9
Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineate 19 22
Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica 21 22
Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala 9 11 12 22
Picidae
Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla 11
Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus 16
Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus 16 19
Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos nanus 6
Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus 19 21 22 23
Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei 22 23
Brown-fronted Woodpecker Dendrocopos auriceps 16 22
Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis 12 13
Himalayan Woodpecker Dendrocopos himalayensis 16
Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus 20 23
Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha 18
Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus 22
Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus 16 18
Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shorii 20 21 23
Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense 4 5 6 8 9 11 12 22
Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus 18
Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus 19
Malaconotinae
Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis virgatus 21
Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus 11 13 20
Aegithinidae
Common Iora Aegithina tiphia 22
Campephagidae
Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei 4 6 7 20
Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus 4 11 20 21 23
Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus 15
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus 20 21 22 23
Laniidae
Rufous-tailed Shrike Lanius isabellinus 6 10
Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus 6 11 13 23
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach 2 4 5 6 11 12 13 20 21 22 23
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis 10 23
Oriolidae
Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 4
Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus 4 5 6 7 8 20 21
Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii 21
Dicruridae
Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus all except 1
Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus 11 22
White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens 5 8
Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus 18 19 22
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer 19
Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus 22
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus 4 5 6 7 8 19
Rhipiduridae
Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha 18 20 22 23
White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis 16 19
Corvidae
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 16
Black-headed Jay Garrulus lanceolatus 15 16 19
Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha 16 18
Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 11 12 20 22
Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae 18 19 22
House Crow Corvus splendens 1 2 9 10 12 13 14 15 24
Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos all except 2
Paridae
Great Tit Parus major 18 19 20 21 22 23
Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus 15 16
Black-lored Tit Parus xanthogenys 16 22 23
Spot-winged Tit Parus melanolophus 16
Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus 17
Hirundinidae
Plain Martin Riparia paludicola 10 13 19 20 23
Sand Martin Riparia riparia 13
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 2 10 18 19 20 21 22 23
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica 12 19 20 21
Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 4 13
Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor 19
Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalense 19
Aegithalidae
Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus 16 17 18
Alaudidae
Singing Bushlark Mirafra cantillans 20
Bengal Bushlark Mirafra assamica 23
Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicura 13
Sand Lark Calandrella raytal 10
Crested Lark Galerida cristata 10 13 23
Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula 23
Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix griseus 13
Cisticolidae
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 21
Bright-headed Cisticola Cisticola exilis 21
Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera 15 16
Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii 18 20
Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica 12
Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis 2 5 6 9 10 13 20 21 23
Plain Prinia Prinia inornata 2 9 12 13 21
Incertae
Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius 2 5 9 11 13 22
Pycnonotidae
Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus 2 20 21 22 23
Himalayan Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys 15 16 17 18 19 20
White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis 11 12
Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer 1 2 6 10 11 12 13 18 19 20 21 22 23
Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala 19 21 22
Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus 17 18
Sylviidae
Chestnut-headed Tesia Oligura castaneocoronata 22
Aberrant Bush Warbler Cettia flavolivacea 18
Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus 12
Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum 8 11 12
Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 2 11 16 21 22
Mountain Chiffchaff Phylloscopus sindianus 15 16 22
Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher 15 16 17 18 22
Lemon-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus 16 18
Brooks's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus subviridis 11
Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei 5 9 13 18
Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides 5 6 7 8 9 11 12 14 20 21 22 23
Western Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus occipitalis 21 22 23
Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos 15 16 19 22
Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri 18 21 22
Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 9 11 12 13 16 19
Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris 11
Timaliidae
Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps 21 22
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys 18
Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer 17 (hd) 18
Black-chinned Babbler Stachyris pyrrhop 16 17 23
Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra 22
Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense 13 20
Common Babbler Turdoides caudate 10 11 23
Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi 9 13 14
Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 20 21 22
White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis 15 16 17 18 19
White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophu 19 20 23
Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus 16 17
Streaked Laughingthrush Garrulax lineatus 15 16 17 18
Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus 16
Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea 18
Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera 18 21
Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata 15 16 17 18
Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis 17 18
Zosteropidae
Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus 11 16 17 18 19 20 22
Sittidae
Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea 18 19 22
White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis 16 23
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis 19 21 22
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria 22 24
Certhiidae
Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana 16 18 19 23
Sturnidae
Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus 20
Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus 5 7 10 13 14 15 24
Common Myna Acridotheres tristis all except 3 17 18 19 24
Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra 2 9 12 13 14 23
Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum 9 10 11 12 13 22 23
Rosy Starling Sturnus roseus 9 10 13
European Starling Sturnus vulgaris 23
Turdidae
Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina 11 12
Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis 16
Muscicapidae
Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope 18
White-tailed Rubythroat Luscinia pectoralis 20
Bluethroat Luscinia svecica 11 12 13 20 21
Red-flanked Bluetail Tarsiger cyanurus 17
Golden Bush-Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus 18
Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis 4 5 7 11 12 13 20 23
White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus 5
Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicatus 2 9 10 12 13 22 23
Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus caeruleocephala 17 18
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 9 10 11 12 13 23
Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis 15 17 18
White-capped Water Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus 16 18 20 22 24
Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosa 16 18 19 21 22 24
Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri 18
Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus 18
Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculates 18
Hodgson's Bushchat Saxicola insignis 21
Common Stonechat Saxicola torquatus 4 6 7 10 15 18 20 21
Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata 9 10 11 13 22
Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferreus 16 18 19 20 22 23
Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata 23
Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti 10
Brown Rockchat Cercomela fusca 23
Taiga Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla 5 6 9 11 12 20
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni 22
Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor 18 22
Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae 18 22
Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara 18 23
Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides 6
Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae 8
Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis 6 13 19
Cinclidae
Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii 18
Chloropseidae
Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis 5
Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons 8 23
Dicaeidae
Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos 19
Nectariniidae
Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus 2
Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis 19 22
Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja 19 23
Passeridae
House Sparrow Passer domesticus 10 13 15 17 18 22 23
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis 22 23
Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans 15 17
Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis 9
Ploceidae
Black-breasted Weaver Ploceus benghalensis 10
Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus 10 22
Estrildidae
Red Avadavat Amandava amandava 5 6 13
Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica 2 10 13
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata 22 23
Black-headed Munia Lonchura Malacca 12
Prunellidae
Altai Accentor Prunella himalayana 16 17
Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata 17 18
Black-throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis 18
Motacillidae
Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola 13 21
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 7 11 16 18 23
White Wagtail Motacilla alba 9 10 13 22 24
White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis 10 13 20 22 24
Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus 10
Blyth's Pipit Anthus godlewskii 23
Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris 10 13 22
Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis 21 23
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 10 23
Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgson 6 18
Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus 22
Upland Pipit Anthus sylvanus 16 (hd) 18
Fringillidae
Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides 15 16 17
Dark-breasted Rosefinch Carpodacus nipalensis 16
Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus 13 18 19 20
Pink-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus rodochroa 15
Emberizidae
Crested Bunting Melophus lathami 21
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 15 16 17
White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti 18
Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps 10 13
MAMMALS, REPTILES
Bengal Tiger Panthera tigris tigris
Sloth Bear Melursus ursinus
Indian Elephant Elephas maximus indicus
Gaur (Indian Bison) Bos gaurus
Chital (Spotted Deer) Axis axis
Sambar Cervus unicolor
Barasingha (Swamp Deer) Rucervus duvaucelii
Muntjac Muntiacus muntjak
Golden Jackal Canis aureus
Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta
Common Langur Presbytis entellus
Wild Boar Sus scrofa
Himalayan Goral Naemorhedus goral
Asian Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphrodites
Five-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennanti
Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus
Common Mongoose Herpestes edwardsi
Gharial Gavialis gangeticus
Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris
Ganges River Dolphin Platanista gangetica gangetica
Asian Cobra Naja naja
Indian Rock Python Python molurus
Water Monitor Varanus salvator
Turtle sp.
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